How to make a dress pattern on your figure?
If you have just decided to start sewing, the first thing you will have to get acquainted with is the rules for drawing up the pattern. But it is precisely she who is needed to create a beautiful and stylish outfit on the figure. Therefore, in this article we will talk about how to make a dress pattern.
What begins sewing clothes?
Before you sew any clothes, whether it's a summer children's sundress or a women's sheath dress, you need to decide on a model. In addition, we advise you to pay attention to the style of clothing: it will be fitting or loose dress. In particular, the definition of style will help to further make an increase in the calculations.
Suppose you decide to sew a fitting dress in size 48, choose a model, and then you should take a centimeter and take measurements from yourself or the person to whom you are going to sew a suit. How to do it? What to measure? And how to make a dress pattern using scrap materials?
To start, in addition to a centimeter, take a sheet of paper and a pen.Then attach a centimeter to the shoulder line and guide it until you decide where your clothes will end (i.e. how long the product will be).
Therefore, before you make the dress pattern yourself, measure and record its intended length. For example, the length of your dress, taking into account height, is 90 cm (this is approximately to the knee). Next you will need to make calculations, measurements and record the following data:
- back length (up to the waist);
- shoulder length;
- girth of your neck;
- chest girth;
- half-grip over the chest;
- half hip hips;
- waist half;
- armhole depth.
How to perform key measurements correctly?
In order to properly perform all key measurements, you need to know from what and to what place you need to hold a centimeter. For example, the length of the back is measured, starting from the seventh vertebra, and is carried to the line of restriction of your waist. The height of the shoulder is measured by keeping a centimeter from the upper shoulder point to the point connecting the spine and the line of your waist. That is, an oblique line is obtained.
Before you make a dress pattern on your body, measure the width of your shoulder.To do this, take a centimeter, attach one part to the highest point of the intended shoulder seam (located at the very base of your neck) and lead the other part to its end point (where the shoulder ends and the arm begins). To measure the circumference of the sleeves, you need to take the fullest part of your shoulder and hug it with a centimeter. At the same time, the measuring tape should close on the outer surface of your hand. Sleeve length is measured from the highest humeral point. Then a centimeter is passed through the outer side of the arm, goes over the forearm and ends at the limit of the length you need.
The half-grip of the neck is calculated based on its girth. To do this, wrap a centimeter around the neck and divide the resulting figure in half. All other measurements with poluobvatom carried out on a similar principle.
For example, you may have the following measurements:
- DS (length of the back) - 39 cm;
- DP (shoulder length) - 14 cm;
- PS (half neck) - 19 cm;
- PNG (half-grip above chest level) - 45 cm;
- PG (half chest) - 49 cm;
- PT (half waist) - 38 cm;
- PB (half hip) - 51 cm;
- GP (armhole depth) - 21.5 cm.
- OG (chest girth) - 98 cm;
- Pr (fit) - 1.5 cm.
How to calculate the width of the back?
Before you make a dress pattern with your own hands, make calculations of measurements. To do this, using the formulas will perform the appropriate calculations. So, when measuring the width of the back, it is necessary to pay attention to the protrusions of both blades, since the measurement is performed from one shoulder blade to the other. Then the resulting measurement is divided by two. For example, the width of the back turned out to be 38 cm, therefore after dividing this number in half we get - 19 cm.
You can check the correctness of your calculations using the following formula: AL = OG / 8 + 5.5 cm. For example, the EXHAUST gas (breast volume) is 110 cm, hence 110/8 + 5.5 = 19.25 cm. As can be seen from calculations, exhaust gas measurements showed a value of - 19 cm, and calculated - 19.25 cm. This means that there is a need to double-check their measurements. If everything is correct, then for the compilation of the future pattern we write the first number, which will be correct.
How to make a dress pattern correctly: measuring armhole width
The width of the armhole can be calculated using the formula: FP or FPR = D pzr (anteroposterior diameter of your hand) + P cfr (allowance leading to the wide part of the armhole).For example, if D pzr is 10 cm, and P cpr - 5 cm, then Shpr = 10 + 5 = 15 cm. Also, this indicator can be checked using a standard grid of dimensions.
How to measure the width of the chest for the pattern?
The width of the chest is measured in two sets. At the first stage, this value is obtained by measuring from one front angle of the armpit to the other, bypassing the protruding parts of your bust. Thus, you measure the width of your chest. At the second stage, it is necessary to measure the width of the front of the body based on the distance between the protruding parts of the mammary glands.
In addition, the chest width can be calculated using the following formula: ¼ EG - 4 cm. If our breast volume is 98 cm, then substituting this value, we get the following: 20.5 cm. Recall that all these measurements and calculations will need to be performed before how to make a dress pattern (for beginners).
What to do after receiving the necessary measurements?
After you have received the required basic measurements, proceed to the creation of the pattern itself. To do this you need tracing paper or any thin paper. Take a photo with a dress that you plan to sew and, looking at it, start transferring your measurements to paper.But keep in mind that your pattern should consist of two parts - the back and the shelf (before). Therefore, carefully consider your sketch. Further look for an approximate transfer of numbers on the tracing paper.
So, put a large sheet of paper corresponding to the length of your future attire (we recall that it is 90 cm), make a small indent from the top (10-15 cm) and in the upper left corner put the point “A”. From it you should draw a vertical line down and put a dot “D” (its length should be 90 cm). From point “A”, draw a line horizontally (its length should be equal to ½ EX + 1.5 cm) and set point “B”. From it, draw a line vertically and set the point "C" (it should be parallel to the point "D"). Connect the dots and get the segment "SD".
You still do not know how to make a dress pattern on your figure, then we continue. From the point “A” we postpone the “G” point along the “HELL” segment corresponding to the depth of the armhole + 0.5 cm. We repeat the same action on the other side. Set the point "G1". We connect and get the segment "YY".
From the point “G” we measure the AL (width of the back), put a dot at the end. Then from it we count ShPR (armhole width) + 0.5 cm and WG (chest width) + 1 cm.Further, according to the measurements made earlier, we note the waist and hip lines in the figure, draw the intended neckline, and outline the dash lines.
Cut the pattern and transfer to the fabric
After the pattern is ready, check the correctness of its preparation and carefully cut the paper along the contour. Then attach the paper to the cut fabric (it is better to grab invisible) and circle with white chalk. After that, using the received contours, cut out the product detail with scissors. It remains only to sew everything on a sewing machine.
How to make an increase in fitting the product?
Before you make a dress pattern, pay attention to its style. It will depend on him how many centimeters you will need to leave on the addition of fitting. A total of dresses come in four types:
- too fitting cut;
- tight fitting silhouette;
- semi-adjacent type;
- direct type.
For a dress that is too close to fit, a 1.5 cm indent is appropriate. For an adjacent silhouette - 3 cm. For a semi-adjacent one - 4-5 cm. And for a straight one - 6-7 cm.
Attention! Doing an increase, do not forget to add additional centimeters to the girth of the chest and hips.
What does the concept of "pattern-basis"?
Often, lovers of cutting and sewing advise beginners to first make the pattern-base of the dress, and then make the product itself. What does it mean? The base pattern is a kind of pattern, which, according to experienced craftsmen, can be used to sew any outfit.
For example, at the heart of any dress can be a standard sheath dress. And from this form, as they say, you can already dance further. For example, increase the sleeves, make the dress more free, increase the overlap, increase or decrease the sleeves, change the decollete area.
How to make a dress pattern for the summer?
We decided to learn how to make a pattern of a summer dress? First, select a light, suitable material, make the necessary measurements, and then make up on paper a pattern-basis, created exclusively by your parameters.
Next, return to the photo or picture, which shows the model of your dress. And, based on it, add new elements to the pattern.
After that, transfer the paper pattern to the fabric, cut the sample and sew. The dress is ready. By the same principle, it is worthwhile to act after the decision you have made on making clothes for children.Before you make the dress pattern for the girl, pay attention to the photo of the model, make measurements and pattern-basis.
Fabric and physique are two important indicators.
Before you create a pattern, pay attention to your physique and the selected fabric. For example, ladies with a slim build can sew dresses from almost any fabric.
The increase is recommended to do more - 10-20 cm. Fat girls should prefer hard and poorly draped fabric. At the same time, it is better to increase the minimum, especially in the hips, as there is a possibility of giving more volume. If you are the owner of bright forms of breasts and buttocks, then the best material for your clothes will be knitwear. So, before you make a dress pattern, consider these points.
What you need to remember when creating patterns?
The pattern will fully comply with the parameters of your figure only if you follow our advice. For example, to finish drawing a dart for the back (at the waist level) should be exactly on the level of the chest. A talium tuck is drawn with a preliminary indentation of 4 cm from the marked chest line.The shoulder tuck ends at the line of your chest. The bottom edge of the armhole also goes along the chest line.
Before you make the dress pattern, take measurements. Creating a pattern-based, remember that the whole pattern is placed inside a large rectangle. The height of this geometric shape must necessarily correspond to the length of your product. The width of the pattern on paper corresponds to the sum of the half-length of the chest and a couple of centimeters. That is, they measured the circumference of the chest, divided the resulting value in half and added up to 7 cm (this number will directly depend on the cut of the dress and the allowance).
The most important part of the pattern is the top. In order to draw armholes, tucks and décolleté was more convenient, divide the upper part of the picture conventionally into three parts: in the middle there will be a armhole, and on the sides - tuck, shoulder line and neck.
In a word, do everything right, following our advice.